Let's Talk About Knitting!

I've been procrastinating long enough on discussing a few of my projects. First, the shawl that I finished last fall before the computer crashes.



Other pictures previously posted can be viewed by clicking here and here if you don't feel like hunting through my website to find them.

For lots of basic information on shawls, including an assortment of basic construction methods and some ideas on ornamentation, Knitting In The Nordic Tradition, by Vibeke Lind, is really a great book. There, in fact, is where I got the basic pattern that this shawl is based on (Double-triangle shawl increased from the neck. Basic form III, p. 76). Start by casting on 3 stitches. From there, I modified the pattern slightly in that I used a YO increase, to make those pretty little eyelets. So, first row: k2 stitches in first stitch, yo, k2. (my method - the book uses an invisible increase). Second row: k2 stitches in first stitch, yo, k to end of row. Continue in this manner, knitting two stitches in the first stitch of each row, then knitting to the stitch before the center stitch (which becomes visible by the third row as the straight chain of stitches in between the yarn overs), yo, then k the center stitch and keep knitting to the end of the row. In order to make the shawl fit better over the shoulders, include a few increase rows somewhere in the first 7 inches or so (measuring the front edge out from the center). Just k 2 stitches in every other stitch across those rows, maintaining the eyelets and center stitch. This is optional but recommended. When the shawl is as big as you want it to be, cast off any way you like. There are any number of lace cast-offs that are appropriate. What I did was a picot border (presented in the book as a cast-on border, but not difficult to modify for casting off). To do this, when you are ready to cast off, in the first stitch cast on 4 stitches (by knitting into the stitch, twisting the new stitch, and placing it back on the left needle) and bind off 5. Repeat across the row until all stitches are casted off. The main part of the shawl took just over 2 skeins of yarn, and the border took most of a third. If you are short on yarn, you might consider making a picot only in every other or every third stitch, binding off the stitches in between normally. Knitting shawls offers the opportunity to work in lace patterns and borders as you like, and should be treated as an opportunity to be creative, so do your own thing! I'm sure it will be beautiful!

And the purple/blue striped socks

They are pictured just a few entries ago, but just in case, you can click here if your memory needs refreshing. These are the ones that I started one week while the kids were at dance class, and then finished most of them as car knitting on the way to Price and back. The Pattern is from The Sock Calendar: Socks for All Seasons by Catherine Wingate and Jackie Erickson-Schweitzer. It is the pattern for September, "Autumnal Equinox." I used Lion Brand Magic Stripes yarn, which I find to be equivalent to Opal. It is 75% wool, 25% nylon, and machine washable, with comparable weight and yardage. I used the 2 circs method for these socks, working from the top down as I wanted to try out the Dutch heel.



I do like the Dutch heel, but where the directions say to use stitch markers and to make the stitches over the markers very snug, either use yarn for markers or omit the markers. I don't tend to like using stitch markers since I can see where the shaping belongs without them. For turning heels (of any turned heel style) where you see a gap between two stitches, those are the stitches to knit (or purl) together. Someone correct me if I am wrong, but no matter how the decreases are spaced, once you have it set up I have found that to be true. Anyway, stitch markers are too bulky and will get in the way, resulting in loose spots.



With the 2 circs method, when you get to the heel it is easiest to just work back and forth on one heel at a time until ready to pick up the instep stitches. I find the use of double-pointed needles to be very helpful for the task of picking up stitches for the instep. The dpns are not in use for long, as those stitches are knitted onto the same circular needle holding the heel stitches as soon as you come around to them. Markers, again, are not needed to keep track of the instep decreases as the decreases always come at the beginning and the end of the needle.



These socks do not match exactly, since I knitted from the inside and outside of the same skein of yarn, resulting in stripes in reverse order. I like them this way - they have character! Who says that socks need to be identical in order to match? You can tell that they go together, and the stripes even line up, pretty much! That is saying something when using self-striping sock yarn.

Knitter's Geek Code

Thanks go to Knitty for starting yet another trend that is taking over knit blogs all over the world, this one included! Well, it is a cool idea anyway. And, as usual, they have some new patterns that are on my must do list. Specifically, Otis and Party Apron are calling to me at the moment. Otis just might be the perfect use for my soy silk yarn, with possible embellishment using the purple silk and/or red silk/merino. And who doesn't need an apron that isn't hideous???

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Version: 1.1
KCRL++ Exp++>$ SPM+++ Wood Bam++@ Cas+ AddiT++@ Boye+@ Syn- Nov+ Cot+ Wool+++ Lux+++ Hemp+ Stash++ Scale++ Fin Ent FI+ Int+++ Tex+++ Lace+ Felt+ Flat- Circ++ ML[2] Swatch- GaugeS(B) KIP+++ Blog+++ SNB++ EZ+++ FO+++ WIP- ALT CrXEmSw-Wv+Sp++
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Although the Knitty article will tell you how to interpret this, I just want to add that I'm not exactly bragging about my Stiches Per Minute, since I actually have won speed contests (knitting back and forth ambidextrously without turning my work)!